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Diamond Finger Bits

A sink opening is the moment of truth in countertop fabrication. The slab is already cut, polished and worth a great deal of money, and now a rectangular hole has to appear in the middle of it — cleanly, to size, with corners that match the template.

The tool that decides whether that goes well is the diamond finger bit: a cylindrical diamond section on a steel shank that plunges, side-mills and traces its way through stone. It grinds away material others cannot reach — enlarging an undersized hole, truing a slot, forming an internal radius, cleaning up saw marks and levelling excess stock.

Ours are built to run true. Low runout is not a spec-sheet nicety here: a bit that wobbles rounds the corners unevenly, chips the arris and wears itself out in a fraction of its life. Combined with a center water feed that delivers coolant to the cutting face rather than somewhere near it, these bits cut faster and stay predictable — which is what you are actually buying.

A Finger Bit Is a Finishing Tool, Not a Drill

This is the single most useful thing to understand about finger bits, and the reason most shops own both types:

  • Core bits make holes. A core bit drills a round opening quickly — it is a roughing tool, and a fast one.
  • Finger bits make holes right. They bring an opening to final size, improve roundness, square up slots, form internal radii and remove the saw or drill marks left behind.
  • The usual sequence is: core drill first, finger bit second. Rough the corners with a core bit, then finish to dimension with the finger bit. Forcing a drill to do finishing work is slow and is a common cause of breakout.

The corner radius is decided by the bit — not by the drawing

A finger bit is cylindrical, so it cannot cut a sharp 90° inside corner. Whatever diameter you run, the corner it leaves has a radius equal to half that diameter:

Bit diameter Corner radius left Typical use
Ø10 mm R5 Tight corners, small openings, fine control
Ø16 mm R8 Small radii, detailed work
Ø20 mm R10 Standard sink cut-out corner
Ø25 mm R12.5 Larger openings, faster removal
Ø30–50 mm R15–R25 Big openings, heavy stock removal
Design the radius in from the start, or plan to square the corner by hand afterwards. If a template demands a true square corner and you only own a Ø20 bit, that corner has to be finished with a file or a much smaller bit — no amount of machine time will change it.

Full Specifications

Product Diamond Finger Bits (stone milling bits)
Function Enlarging, truing, smoothing, slotting, internal radii, grinding away excess material, pre-polish finishing
Abrasive Synthetic monocrystalline diamond
Bond / process Brazed diamond layer on hardened steel body (electroplated & sintered on request)
Head shape Flat / cylindrical, ball nose (round), cone, chamfer, radius
Diameter 10, 12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 22, 25, 30, 35, 40, 50 mm (custom available)
Working length 15, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60, 80, 100 mm (custom available)
Diamond grit #30/40, #60, #80, #120, #200
Grit class Coarse #30/40–60 / Medium #80 / Fine #100–200 (pre-polish)
Shank / connection M14, 5/8″-11, 1/2″ Gas (BSP), straight shank 6 / 8 / 10 / 12 mm, 1/4″, 1/2″
Body material Hardened 45# / alloy steel
Water feed Center water-feed hole — delivers coolant to the cutting face
Runout ≤ 0.05 mm — low-chatter design
Working condition Wet recommended; short dry passes acceptable with extraction
Spindle speed (CNC) 4,500–12,000 rpm depending on diameter
Step-down per pass (CNC) 0.5–2 mm typical
Feed rate (CNC) 200–1,000 mm/min — start conservatively, tune by sound
Machine CNC stone router, CNC bridge saw with milling spindle, radial arm machine, hand-held grinder, engraving machine
Workpiece materials Granite, marble, engineered quartz, quartzite, artificial stone, limestone, travertine, ceramics, concrete
Applications Sink & cooktop cut-outs, faucet and tap holes, soap dispenser holes, blind holes, slots, internal radii, saw-mark removal, pre-polish finishing
Finish capability Can be followed by polishing heads for a finished internal edge
Packaging Individual plastic box / blister, export carton, pallet
MOQ 20 pcs (standard sizes)
Lead time 5–10 days stock; 15–30 days custom
Certification ISO 9001 (CE / EN 13236 on request)
HS code 8207.50.90
Brand GUSHI
Origin Zhejiang, China

Finger Bit vs Core Bit vs Drum Wheel

Three tools, three jobs. Getting the order wrong is the usual reason a cut-out takes twice as long as it should.

Dimension Finger Bit (this) Core Bit Drum Wheel
Primary job Finishing: final size, roundness, radii Roughing: creating the hole Blending & final polish
Cuts its own entry Yes (plunge & side-mill) Fastest No — follows existing geometry
Slot & internal radius work Yes — any path No — round only Limited
Removes saw / drill marks Yes No Yes, but only superficially
Dimensional accuracy Highest Medium Low — it follows what is there
Surface finish left Medium — pre-polish Rough Smoothest
Where it sits in the sequence Second First Last
Do not reverse the order. If you polish with a drum wheel before the geometry is right, you polish over an uneven surface — and defects that were easy to fix become invisible until the light hits them.

Head Shape: Flat, Ball, Cone or Chamfer

Head shape Best for Note
Flat / cylindrical Slots, squaring openings, levelling a bottom face The default — most rigid, most predictable
Ball nose (round) Contoured carving, 3D relief, soft transitions Leaves a rounded bottom in grooves
Cone Engraving, bevelling, reaching into tight corners Smaller tip = slower removal
Chamfer / 45° Arrissing holes, breaking edges on cut-outs One-pass edge finish
Radius (profiled) Forming a repeatable concave or convex profile Made to your profile drawing

Selection Guide

Diameter by job

Diameter range Best for
Ø10–14 mm Tight internal corners, small openings, fine control, least load on the spindle
Ø16–25 mm General-purpose countertop cut-outs and hole enlarging — the shop default
Ø30–50 mm Faster stock removal in larger openings, thicker slabs, production work

Working length by material thickness

Job Working length
Standard countertop 20–30 mm 15–30 mm
Thick slab or deep internal pocket 40–60 mm
Tall work, special jigs 80–100 mm
Do not buy extra length “just in case”. A longer bit deflects more, and deflection is what turns into chatter, an out-of-round hole and a short tool life.

Grit by material

Material Grit Note
Hard granite, quartzite #30/40 – #60 Aggressive; needs coolant
Engineered quartz #60 – #80 Balanced; avoids excess chipping
Marble, limestone, travertine #80 Softer stone — coarse grit is unnecessary
Pre-polish finishing #120 – #200 Leaves a surface ready for polishing heads

Sink Cut-Out — The Working Sequence

  1. Layout and tape. Mark the opening, then apply masking tape over the cut line on the polished face. It stops the bit skating at entry and protects the finish.
  2. Rough the corners. Plunge a core bit — or the finger bit itself — at each corner. Relieving the corners takes the plunge load off the finger bit for the rest of the job.
  3. Cut the straight runs. Saw or mill the long sides, leaving 1–2 mm of stock standing proud.
  4. Mill to final size in shallow passes. Trace the outline with the finger bit, stepping down 0.5–2 mm per pass rather than plunging deep in one go. Keep the center water feed running.
  5. Let the corners be corners. Remember the radius equals half the bit diameter — Ø20 gives R10. Switch to a smaller bit only if the template demands a tighter radius.
  6. Finish the internal edge. Move up to a fine grit (#120–#200) or a polishing head to bring the inside edge to the required finish, then arris the top edge lightly.
Support the offcut. As the last of the material goes, the centre piece loses support and its weight can lever against the bit — clamp or prop it so it cannot drop and snap the tool or crack the slab.

Keeping Chatter Out of the Cut

Runout is not just noise. A bit that does not run true cuts with one side of the diamond, rounds corners unevenly, chips the arris and wears out long before it should. Four things control it:

  • Grip deep. Seat the shank at least three times its diameter into the collet, and make sure the collet is clean and not worn.
  • Use the shortest working length that clears the job. Every extra millimetre of overhang is more deflection.
  • Keep the shank clean and undamaged. Dried slurry or a nick in the shank will throw the bit off centre no matter how good the collet is.
  • Cut shallower. Heavy step-downs are the most common cause of chatter on a setup that is otherwise fine.

Applications

  • Undermount and drop-in sink cut-outs in granite, marble and quartz.
  • Cooktop and hob openings, plus corner radii to match the appliance template.
  • Faucet, tap and soap dispenser holes — enlarging and truing undersized bores.
  • Blind holes and recesses, anchor pockets, drainage slots.
  • Removing saw marks, truing edges and levelling excess material on thick build-ups.
  • Lettering, relief carving and free-form shaping on monuments and feature stone.
  • Ceramic and porcelain work where a clean, chip-free opening is required.

OEM & Wholesale

GUSHI supplies diamond finger bits to countertop fabricators, stone CNC shops, monument makers and tool distributors worldwide. We build custom diameters, working lengths, head shapes (flat, ball, cone, chamfer, profiled), shanks (M14, 5/8″-11, 1/2″ Gas, straight) and grits, and support OEM/ODM and private label. Samples are available for testing; the sample fee is returned against your first official order.

Frequently Asked Questions

Finger bit or core bit?

Core bits make holes fast and are roughing tools. Finger bits finish: final size, roundness, slots, radii and removing saw or drill marks. Most shops core drill first, then finish with a finger bit.

Can it cut a sharp 90° inside corner?

No — a cylindrical bit always leaves a radius equal to half its diameter (Ø20 leaves R10). Design the radius in, square the corner by hand, or use a smaller diameter bit.

What diameter should I use?

Ø10–14 mm for tight corners and fine control, Ø16–25 mm for general cut-outs and enlarging, Ø30–50 mm for fast removal in big openings. Keep diameter at or below twice your target inside radius.

What working length?

Cover thickness plus clearance and no more: 15–30 mm for 20–30 mm countertops, 40–60 mm for thick slabs or deep pockets, 80–100 mm for tall work. Excess length means deflection and chatter.

Speed and depth per pass?

Roughly 4,500–12,000 rpm by diameter on CNC, with 0.5–2 mm step-downs and steady coolant. If edges stay clean, raise feed before raising depth of cut.

Wet or dry — and does the center water hole matter?

Wet, and yes. Center feed puts water at the cutting face instead of somewhere near it, which cools the diamond, flushes slurry and extends life considerably. Dry only for short work with extraction and respiratory protection.

How do I stop chatter and runout?

Grip at least 3× shank diameter in a clean collet, use the shortest working length that works, keep the shank clean and nick-free, and take shallower passes.

MOQ, lead time, OEM, samples?

MOQ 20 pcs standard; 5–10 days stock, 15–30 days custom. OEM/ODM and private label welcome; samples available with the fee returned on your first order.

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